II Deban to Vijoynagar, in betwen somewhere I Arunachal Pradesh II

I am thinking whether I should write about it or not.. 
It was the trek that I desperately wished to do. But could not made it. Reasons were many, like the  weather, sociopolitical unrest of the region, limited days left with us, porters disagreement and  so on.

Vijoynagar, a bordering village with Myanmar in  Arunachal Pradesh, remotest and the little known human inhabitant. 

The uncertain Chopper service from Miao is the only transportation to reach Vijoyanagar. Otherwise rely on your feet if you can and dare to trek for 10-12 days through the Namdapha National park along the Nao-dihing river or by so called MG Road (?)

It was mid February 2019, and winter is still here in  Northeast India, rain was far away to pour. But in Miao as we reached, on 17th February  evening it  was raining continuously  and the first message we got from the concerned authority that the Chopper service had been cancelled until the  weather get cleared. Bad luck. Booked accommodation and spent the night. The next day morning was also raining...till evening our job  was just to look at the sky and pray.... the night passed on... next day also it was raining..we had nothing left but to roam here and there and praying for a clear sky, so that the chopper service get resumed. 

3rd day evening the student organization declared indefinite Arunachal Pradesh bandh (!) and the weather seems to be cleared: the 4 letters word starting with "f" made a big noise here. We decided to hire a 4 wheeled vehicle that would pick up us as early as by 4 AM the next day to avoid any unwanted problem that might arise due to the declared statewise bandh and drop us at namdapha-national-park at Deban. We reversed our plan, we would trek from Deban to Vjoyanagar and on return we would opt the Chopper service, thinking that, by the time 10 days past the weather as well as  the situation would be clear and normal.

           Hired 4 porters from the local Chakma Basti in Deban and began our trek next day by MV Road from Deban forest camp. We did not trek through the National Park as the water level of the Nao-dihing river was continuously rising and the river was not safe to be crossed over wooden and bamboo bridges.

We walked for the day and camped  at  21 miles for the night. Next morning as we began the rain started. We moved  on. This was one of the shocking road for us. The entire road was filled with the sticky mud and pebbles sliding down from the hills with rain water. The road was wide enough to ply big trucks but the mud left only few parts of the road to keep our feet safely. And if somehow we kept our step on the mud then leg went dip inside  the mud upto the thigh and you alone cannot take it out of the mud. It was sticky and risky of getting serious leg injury. And it happened to us.

To our mere surprise there were still many people coming from Vijoyanagar, loading their back with 30-35 kg of cardamom filled bags to sale those at Miao and many others going, with loads of ration, diesel, building materials like Tin etc. either on their back or on a bicycle that had only the wheels and frames. And it is worth to mention that the distance between Vijoynagar and Miao is 160 KM, and you imagine the no. of days they carry those heavy loads on their back and cycle by that sticky muddy MG Road and they sleep anywhere at night by merely making a temporary roof by using bamboo and woods.  

I would like to show you a video of these people how they were transporting their most needed goods and materials, but I lost it somewhere. 

We reached '42 miles' and arranged our overnight stay there in a house abandoned nearly 20 years back. It was safe only because it had the strong roof and hardly had the remains of the walls. Have a look here where we spent 2 nights, yes of course dreaming of dead people and ghost. Rain was still there with little hide and seek. 

Two (2) nights spent in that abandoned house and we decided to cancel our trek to Vijoyanagar plan and moved back.

Coming back we camped one night in a beautiful village 'Nagudi' of Lisu tribe at '12 mile'.

The people in the village looked beautiful. They nurture the entire village with cultivation of Papita, banana, maize, ilaachi, sugarcane pineapple, cabbage etc and even tea. And you won't believe 2 men and 2 women built a home right in front of eyes during the day. They took good care of us and offered us two bamboo houses to camp for the night. Night well spent. Next morning we took the short path coming back  to Deban through the Namdapha Park. 

It was our most desired trek which remain unaccomplished and we still wish to make it happened. May be by the end of 2019 or at the beginning of 2020  I will again backpack to Vijoyanagar

This time we were 4 (four), - Zaved from Guwahati, Debojit from Duliajan, Madhumita from Tinsukia and me.

If you wish to join me, do keep in touch with me either by commenting here or sending a message.

Dear friends, thanks for reading. Your suggestions and views for improvement are highly appreciated. Do comment in the below box and share among other readers if you found it eligible to share.

Dipmoina Dowarah 


  1. Hats off Dip.... imagine in 60's people from mainland like my father went there to work for Development of Arunachal or the then NEFA. This places were called outposts.

    1. Thanks for your comment. I always get thrilled to know about those people reaching such remotest place on earth during the early 20 century.

  2. Hi Mr.Dowarah,
    It is really an awesome experience.

  3. Hi,
    I was feeling very nostalgic by reading and seeing the pics. I have served at Vijaynagar in 2009. Do ping me on 9876134906.



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