II GLOW LAKE: Arunachal Pradesh II


Adventure is always a full of uncertainty, you plan one and execute the other, you destine for one and land on the other, and you prepare for something and face the opposite. We hardly found what we presume. The most frustrating cause becomes the very cause to rejoice.

Glow Lake and Chakma Basti: A sleepless night and the last moment plan

We planned to trek Desali Range, one of the most virgin inhabitants in Lower Debang Valley District, Arunachal Pradesh. We declared the scheduled dates for the trek. As we were nearing our dates, changing and rescheduling of dates became a daily affair for one or other reasons. And for the last cause, but not the least, we finally dropped this trek as our guide fell seriously ill all of a sudden. I had only 2 days to find out and decide a new trek and also to convince the participants for one more change. I spent sleepless night in surfing the net to find out a new trek route and guide as well, send friend request on Facebook at midnight to gather information. This is because one of our participants would be joining us for an International Scientific TV Channel project, and it had a particular core subject that most suited with the Desali Range trek. I needed to be very particular so that the new would be trek had the least deviation with the subject of this project. Finally I decided to make the ‘Chakma Basti in Deban’ plus a ‘2 days 1 night trek’ in the hill range of Namdapha National Park, as the subject for the project. This was my Plan A. And as Plan B, I kept Glow Lake (27⁰ N, 96⁰ E; elevation 1200 Meter) trek, in Kamlang Sanctuary. No doubt our nos. of participants got down to 2 (two); Shankar, the one for the project and Haren, the promising landscape photographer.


Camping in Kamlang Sanctuary

On 22nd February'2015, we only 3 people headed to Deban via Namsai from Tinsukia, Assam. Everything was ok. At “Kampai” (in Arunachal Pradesh), a place amidst in the Kamlang Sanctuary at a distance nearly 20- 25 KM from Wakro, where some construction work was going on, suddenly my Maruti Dzire stopped with a vehemently violating sound while taking an upward move. The car showed no sign of getting fit to move up. 

We finally decided to camp for the night there. As the dusk arrived we pitched our tents and collected enough fire woods to keep the fire on for the whole night in order to protect ourselves from any kind of wild animals. For our dinner, we had only 1.5 kg of chicken meat. We collected some rice, potato, mustard oil, chili, haldi, salt and a frying pan from the construction site and eventually we enjoyed ‘chicken barbecue’ and chicken pulao in the wild.

Plan B

In the early next morning my colleagues went out for their photography and I after packing up our stuff switched on the ignition of the car. The engine got started with a big jerk and black smoke with the clear message to us that it would not move up. We decided to move back and again got blanked with our plan. After a few kilometers back down the engine got hot and we stopped in a village named “Khare” and I asked my colleagues to find out their subject matters if possible. After roaming for few hours in the village in search of their projects subject we drive out to find a mechanic. We got information about a mechanic at Medo, some 20 km from “Khare”. By the time the car gradually showed some improvement in its performance by itself. We found the mechanic; he checked the engine and found no fault. So we again moved up to execute my Plan B, the Glow Lake Trek, in Kamlang Sanctuary. After negotiating with a local guy as the porter we stayed in the Wakro circuit house for that night.

At around 10AM, 24th February 2015, we started our trek from Zero at an altitude nearly 400 MSL. After trekking half of the day I noticed that our porter cum guide was not feeling fit to move up. His whole body was trembling and exhibited dizziness. He told that he was experiencing pain on his calf muscle and could not step forward. I transferred some 5kg of weight from his load and my backpack and administered some mild pain killer. I asked him to sleep for few minutes. After nearly half an hour he was fit to move.

We again started to move and climbed up; my load was nearly 15 kg.

Mysterious Rain drops and bluish white Spots

By afternoon almost 3 PM sky became cloudy and we experienced few rain drops. Soon the weather became clear. Dusk arrived, we moved fast with our torches finding the way in the dense forest. At some points our porter asked us to switch off our torches and direct us to see in a particular direction through the dense jungle. Amazed to see some big to medium bluish silver pearl like spots though the dense jungle. Could not catch instantly as to what the spots were…Oh that was the Lake seen through the woods with the moon light reflection. I cannot explain it properly how mysterious the Lake looked like. My heart beats got some speed for the second time on the day. The first time when I saw the majestic Hills from a position nearly 1700 meters MLS, and from where we needed to move down towards the Lake, it was dusky and the mountain looked so majestic, gorgeous; I felt like it was gazing at us and keeping every step of us on count. Oh my God, what a mysterious attitude of these almighty Hills. That too I cannot explain with my limited vocabulary. Seeing the bluish white spots we realized that we were walking by the sides of the Holy Glow Lake. As we reached the camping point of the Lake, we met 4 (four) local persons who were camping there for fishing. We spent the night after the dinner. 

The next morning the rising sun, the gorgeous Hills all had the plan to make the Lake more beautiful and more divine. As of now as I flash back that morning I felt like yes that was different kind of world and beauty, only those could experience, who climb up the mountain and reach there. We are lucky enough, because genuinely a few and a very few have the fate in their lifetime to touch and experience the beauty of the Holy Glow Lake with the gorgeous Hills, the rising sun and the chirping tunes of birds.  

The Folktales

To our mere astonish, in the morning one person who were camping there told us that they got the message of our arrival much earlier. They revealed that whenever a new person comes to the Lake it welcomes with cloudy sky and few rain drops, oh surely that we had that already the previous day as we were nearing the Lake. There are many folktales associated with the Lake. The local people worship the Lake as one of the most holy Lake and believe that the Mehao Lake in Mehao wildlife sanctuary and Glow Lake are siblings. Both Lakes are almost at the same height from MSL and of almost equal in circumference about 4-5 km. They made us noticed one more fact of the Lake that it always remains clean and believe that there are 4 girls and 4 boys, who are goddesses of the Lake and never allow the Lake to get dirty. Another story they added to us that if any new person had bath in the Lake it would rain, we did not wish to try it. I feel every belief has a root. 

Our hearts were filled with beauty and grace, we felt happy and I also knew that every one of us had got our own subject by that time, even though Glow lake was our subject at the beginning, so I would say GOD HAD A DIFFERENT PLAN FOR US.

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Dipmoina Dowarah

(Note: It may e noted here that I published this story including the photographs earlier, in many social media platforms, third party websites as well as in print media. You may find its contents or part of it or photographs in other media or platforms etc. copied and uploaded by the followers of my original story, may be with or without my consent.)

Photo Courtesy - Haren Gogoi, Shankar Kashyap 

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